Food for Dogs and Puppies

With the recent dog food recall in the US, and rising concern over the safety of commercial food for dogs, I have included Stephen Stewart's article on the effect of food on energy levels in dogs. Your dog's health and energy are affected by more than just your dog's food, which is why I recommend that you claim your free "5 simple things to extend your dogs life" mini-course!

"Puppies Energy Levels, Increasing them in Five Natural Healthy Ways by stephenstewart

Now I know to most Dog owners this is going to sound like an obvious question but does your puppy have the attention span of a two-year-old child? OK, if it's a Labrador, then this is about as good as it's going to get - only joking here as I'm sure there are some Labradors with terrific attention spans, it is just that we don't have one of them. We have a 2 ½ year old black Labrador / border collie cross called Elmo and though he may have a great many redeeming factors, in fact he has loads. It is just that when it came to the allocation of common sense, Elmo must've been outside chewing a bone.

Anyway back to the matter in hand: Is your puppy a little too fatigued and tired throughout the day? If you have already taken your dog to the vets for a full examination and he checks out okay, you may want to take it upon yourself to help increase his energy levels and attention span by going the “natural” route.

Of course as in all cases, animal pharmaceuticals and medicines have their place but if the Vet doesn't see anything untoward then there are certain steps you can take, quite naturally, to get “the pep” back into your puppy

1. As long as your puppy is more than six weeks old, try reducing his feeding times to only twice per day. Have you thought that you might actually be over feeding your puppy in an attempt firstly to try and help them grow? As with humans, over feeding can make a puppy very lethargic and tired. You can help your puppy by cutting back on his meals.

2. Check the food labels and be sure that the food you are feeding your puppy has a complete digestibility level of at least 85% to 90%.

3. Protein is a very important nutrient for good health and energy in dogs. Unfortunately, many dog foods sold in stores are made up of mostly carbohydrates. Dogs need meat and lots of protein to be at their best. This is especially true of young puppies. So be sure that each meal has a high level protein source when feeding your puppy. It is important to get the food balance right.

4. As far as supplements are concerned, is always smart to first check with your veterinarian. But we have a recommendation that may help your dog and that is to supplement his food with brewers yeast. Brewers yeast is absolutely chock full of B vitamins and protein and is another natural way of supplementing a diet.

5. Last but not least, the latest trend in supplements for both people and animals are omega-3 fatty acids. But there is good reason for this popular trend and that is because these oils are extremely healthy and are known to raise concentration levels in dogs as well as create a healthy shine on their coat. You can find omega-3 fatty acids in fish oils and flaxseed oils.

Scott James writes about a number of Internet pet based issues such as Dog Beds and Supplies, Inuyasha and Dogs For Sale.

Article Source: http://articles.directorygold.com/


Find out more about healthy alternatives to commercial foods in Andrew Lewis' Dog Food Secrets.

Shy or Nervous Dogs: Can you train them?

Shy or nervous dogs can be cowardly or aggressive. Because it makes the dog's behaviour unpredictable, it is important that you overcome his shyness, both for your sake and for the sake of the dog. It is equally important that you understand how to adapt your training techniques to allow for your dog's shyness. In this article, Kay King discusses the most obvious symptoms of shyness, and training methods that can be used to help your dog overcome it.

Remember that understanding your dog is more important than ever when your dog is already unsure of its place. Ray Coleiro's Dog Training Mastery - An Owners Manual teaches you to understand and work with your dog, whatever his temperament. Make sure you sign up for the free email course!

Shy Dogs - Meeting the Special Training and Home Requirements of the Shy Dog By Kay King
Some dogs from birth are excessively shy and cowering, and in some cases that shyness may lead to aggression as a result of fear. An owner may label this as bad behavior - yet the dog is just being what he is. Such a dog is certainly not trainable as a guard dog but can be a wonderful and gentle family pet when provided with gentle handling and safe havens in the home.

Most bad behaviors can be handled by careful and consistent training...but you can no more change the personality of a dog than you can that of a human. Training must have the aim of creating new habits rather than eliminating instinctive and inherited behaviors.

A shy dog is a prime candidate for crate training. A good size crate located in a low traffic area of the home can provide a safe haven when the dog becomes threatened or nervous. From the den of his crate he can observe activity around him without having to be part of it.

Once a shy dog accepts that the crate is comfortable (clean and with a pad or bed to lay on) and that it belongs to him....most owners can simply leave the door to the crate open and the dog will voluntarily go to the crate when the need arises.

Training a shy dog can be very rewarding but must be done with the utmost respect for the animal. Harsh corrections and raised voices are not effective and actually can cancel out prior training. The shy dog requires training that uses gentle corrections and a calm demeanor on the part of the training.

Training should cease at the first sign of nervousness in the animal. Above all, the training should focus on creating a feeling of safety and control for the animal. This might mean that on a leash the dog will always walk close enough to touch his person once trust has been established.

Such a dog, when faced with strange people, may hide behind his owner once trust has been established. Under no circumstances should the owner allow anyone to violate the dog’s hiding space. Although exhibiting shy behavior by retreating behind his person, the dog is also stressed by his wish to protect his person. Thus, allowing a stranger to reach toward a dog exhibiting such behavior is asking for at least a growl, and perhaps a bite.

Shy dogs may also exhibit extreme anxiety during weather events such as heavy rain or thunderstorms. This is a good time to guide them to their crate and to close them in it for a bit. The alternative is for you to sit in place while your dog friend seeks reassurance by staying as close to you as possible.

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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kay_King

Now, don't forget that free email course!

Seperation Anxiety? How to help your dog overcome this common problem

Does your dog howl, scratch, chew furniture and carpets, or go toilet in the house when you are out? In this article, Wendy Mitchell discusses a probable cause for this common problem.

Does Your Dog Have Separation Anxiety? by Wendy Mitchell

It's always a nice feeling to have your dog greet you at the door, but some dogs can be a bit excessive about it. Greeting you this way upon your return home is one common separation anxiety symptom.

Simply put, separation anxiety is the fear of being left alone. If your dog has it, he is not alone. Animal behaviorists estimate that 10 to 15 percent of dogs exhibit symptoms of separation anxiety, which include:

• Digging, chewing or scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to escape or reunite with you;

• Howling, barking and crying in an attempt to get you to return;

• Urination and defecation--even with house-trained dogs--as a result of distress;

• Destroying household objects;

• Clinginess or remaining close to you, even following you from room to room, while you're home.

Punishing a dog for separation anxiety behaviors will not solve the problem. You should understand your dog is not doing it intentionally; he is distressed and anxious because you are not there. This anxiety and nervous energy causes him to act out.

What Causes Separation Anxiety?

No one knows exactly. However, certain factors and triggers are common among separation anxiety cases. They include:

• A change in schedule that requires the pet to be left alone for longer periods of time than normal;

• Living in multiple homes or being abandoned by previous owners makes dogs susceptible to separation anxiety.

Ways To Treat It

Here are some commonly recommended ways to treat separation anxiety:

• Place the dog in a smaller space, such as a crate, where he can feel secure when you leave. However, if the dog panics when crated, do not force him in.

• Leave your dog an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old T-shirt that you recently slept in.

• Teach your dog as many commands as possible, especially "sit," "relax" and "stay." The point of teaching anxious dogs to relax is to give them confidence. Do the exercise in all the rooms of the house and in the yard. Give praise and treats liberally.

Finally, do not make a big production out of your departures.

For additional information from the experts at Novartis Animal Health US, Inc., including tips and treatments regarding intestinal parasites, visit www.growingupwithpets.com/.

About 10 to 15 percent of dogs exhibit symptoms of separation anxiety - fear of being left alone.

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To learn more about how your dog thinks, and avoiding problems like seperation anxiety, take a look at Ray Coleiro's Dog Training Mastery. Remember to sign up for the free email course!

What to Buy for your Dog

Before buying a dog, what do you need? In the following guest article, "Your Puppy's Essential Needs", Linda Kajda outlines the equipment you should buy to keep your new dog happy and healthy. All these essentials can be bought at discount rates in the USA from Dog.com - Discount Pet Supplies. For UK shoppers, click on Petplanet.co.uk - For All Your Pet Needs


Your Puppy’s Essential Needs
Author: Linda Kajda

Food and Water Bowls: A puppy needs a variety of basic items. Topping the list are a food dish and a separate water bowl. A mat to put them on is also necessary in order to save the floor from slurped water and spilled food. If your puppy has long, hanging ears, get dishes specially made to keep their ears out of the food or water.

Consider bowls with weighted bases or non-slip bottoms so your pet cannot push them all around the room. For a dog that will be very tall, two dishes in a raised stand will keep food and water where they belong and at a comfortable height. Lightweight plastic bowls are not a good idea especially for a teething, chewing puppy. If your puppy is in an exercise pen, a water bowl is available that hangs on the wire and can be raised as he grows.

Food: Begin with whatever dog food the breeder was feeding, or ask your veterinarian for advice. You may also buy a top-quality food made especially for puppies. Vets today agree that it is not necessary to add vitamins or minerals to a quality dog food for a healthy puppy. Too many vitamins are actually detrimental, especially for large breeds.

Cookies and treats: Small, plain dog biscuits are ideal for "good puppy" rewards and an occasional treat. Fancy flavored treats are okay for adult dogs, but young puppies do better on a blander diet and fewer treats!

Collar and Leash: Collars come in all colors and styles. Just keep in mind that the puppy will outgrow several collars until he reaches his full size and he may go through as many as six different collar sizes as he grows. It is very sad to see a little puppy weighed down with a heavy chain collar and a leash strong enough to restrain a horse! Be sure each collar and leash you select matches the current size and strength of your puppy. Take him with you to the pet store to be sure you get the right collar, and keep in mind that you will probably be back in a couple of months for a bigger one. The leash will last longer, unless your puppy is allowed to use it as a teething toy, which is definitely not a recommended game.

Collars that can tighten around the dog's neck are meant to be used only as training devices and removed when the lesson is over. They are not intended for continuous wear because they are dangerous. If this type of collar catches on any immovable object, the dog can easily strangle in his efforts to get free. Stay with soft buckle or snap-closure collars for everyday wear. If you go for "motivational training," you will be staying with the soft collar.

forgreat (dogcare)clickhere

Author Name:Linda Kajda
Email:pebbles26@comcast.net
URL: http://www.bernesemountaindogsecrets.com/

Linda Kajda is a freelance writer and an avid dog lover.
Her newest book, Schnauzer Secrets, is a'must have' owner's manual for Schnauzer owners.

Article Source: http://www.article99.com

Tips On Being Pack Leader

Most dog training books and manuals emphasise dominance when training your dog. They explain that in order to train your dog, you the owner must become the dog's pack leader, or 'Alpha Male' . What many misunderstand, is the role of the dog pack leader. Here are some tips to make your dog respect your leadership.

1) Aggression: The pack leader has risen above aggression. He is certain of his place, and that place is accepted by the other members of the pack. Aggression amongst dogs, then, is reserved for the middle tier of the pack who may one day become Alpha and wish to keep their rivals under control. This is significant in two ways. 1) If you are aggressive towards your dog, you are telling him that you are uncertain of your position within the pack structure, and 2) if your dog is aggressive towards you or your family, he is unsure of your position, and is trying to raise himself above you.

2) Resources: The Alpha male controls the resources of the pack. He eats first, and can potentially control the food of the other pack members. It is important then that you control your dog's feeding, for instance by dictating when and where he eats. I always ensure that my dogs have their food after the family's evening meal, and never leave a bowl of un-finished food down. Note that water should never be controlled or rationed in a any way!

3) Leading from the front: The Alpha dog leads the pack in the hunt. Many dog trainers insist that the owner goes through doors, gates etc first to emphasise their dominance. I tend to think that this is over-kill, but may be useful in emphasising your dominance over a strong dog. I usually insist that my dogs sit and allow me to pass first when leaving a safe area, for instance when going out of my front gate into the road.

4) The upper Hand: Generally in sleep / rest situations, the alpha male will take the uppermost position. This is not always true, as the confident alpha may not need to stamp his authority in this way. However, a dog who insists on sleeping on his owner is staking his claim to dominance. If you enjoy having your dog on your lap, make sure that he doesn't mind your arm, your hand, something, resting on him. If he objects, he considers himself dominant – watch out!.

5) Children: Too often, there are reports of babies and children being mauled and sometimes killed by dogs who have never seemed particularly aggressive before. In a wolf pack, only the alpha dogs breed. If you are the alpha couple, the dog will protect your offspring, sometimes with his life. However if the dog doesn't believe that you are the alpha couple, then he may be more unsure of the position of children, and especially babies, leading to attacks and tragedies. Important note: However certain you are that your dog knows his position, you should never leave young children on their own with him.

The Alpha dog model does not cover all aspects of dog behaviour, partly because dogs are kept in un-natural conditions in modern society. Remember too that the Alpha male has to be strict in difficult conditions, but that in times of plenty, he will relax his iron rule. Thus, your dog will not get mixed messages if he occasionally gets his meals before the family eat, or sometimes is allowed to climb onto your lap to sleep. The trick is to make him understand that he can only break the rules when you allow him to!

Free e-mail course, and much more! Learn more about how your dog thinks with Dog Training Mastery, and improve your dog training success.

Train your dog to come – 5 Fun Training Games

Teaching your dog to come to you can be hard work, or fun, it's up to you. Just like a child, your dog will learn much more effectively if he is interested in what he is doing. I always recommend using fun and games to keep your dog's interest, and your own! Here are five of my favourite games:

1) Play hide and seek: While the dog is not looking, or is distracted by a friend, hide. To start with, choose obvious places where the dog can see you easily. Call your dog. When he finds you, praise him make a huge fuss, give him a treat... then hide again!! Try going to the same place a few times, then hiding in more and more difficult places to find. Make sure that you don't hide somewhere too confusing – like in a tree, or somewhere where your voice has an echo which leads the dog in the wrong direction. These are fine and fun places to give your dog a good game, but will make the 'come' command more difficult to obey, and therefore not teach it effectively. You will tire of this game before your dog does, so play for as long as you like.

2) Chase me: This is a good way to get a dog to come to you. Call the dog while running away from him. He will do what dogs love best, and chase you. When he catches you, praise him, give him treats, make him love coming to you.

3) Fetch: Throw a ball for your dog, and as soon as he picks it up, yell “come!”. Praise him as soon as he reaches you, so that he knows he is being praised for coming. You may need to present a treat to get your dog to drop the ball or stick to start with, but he will soon learn that dropping the stick means the game can continue. Throw the stick again, giving a fetch command, then call 'come' as he returns!

4) Come and go: With a friend, sit at opposite sides of a room – it doesn't matter how big or small – call your dog and praise him. As you are praising him, have your friend call him. Stop your praise immediately, and let the puppy run to your friend, who then takes up the praise. Repeat the process for as long as your stamina allows! Puppies especially will love this game!

5) Distraction (especially for young puppies). Most young puppies stick to their owners like glue. Walk around your garden or a large room, with your puppy off the lead. Wait until your puppy is looking away, then quickly change direction. If you make a noise, the puppy should notice that you have moved away, and run to you. Praise him. After a few tries, making sure that the puppy is coming to you (some puppies are braver than others!), give the command 'Come!' instead of making a noise. Remember to praise your puppy every time he comes to you, and have some treats in your pocket as well!

Really understand your dog! Click here for a new approach to training dogs, with a free email taster course!

Come! 6 Top Training Tips

One of the most frustrating (and dangerous) dog behaviour problems is that of the dog who won't come to its owner. If you suffer from this problem, the solutions are simple, but you may have to go back to basics!

1) Always use the same command. I use 'come' because it is simple to use and is unlike any other command word. Remember your dog will not understand 'get over here' if you usually say 'come'.

2) Always praise the dog for coming to you. This is particularly important for puppies who will learn extremely well if they are praised and loved every time they do something right! Come should be the dog's favourite word, and should make them want to run to you straight away.

3) Never call the dog to you for punishment, or to do something unpleasant. Remember love and praise every time!

4) Your body language is important. A dog stands stiff legged and looks into the eyes of another dog to be aggressive and threatening. You will find it much more effective to crouch or bend, slap your legs and don't make eye contact. Keep your voice high pitched and cheerful. Your dog may come to you without you giving the command word when you adopt this position.

5) It is essential that your dog doesn't learn to ignore the 'come' command. Use any trick that you can to get the dog to come to you – running away will make him chase you, for instance. A particularly useful trick I use is to do something totally out of character, like falling to the ground and pretending to cry or laugh loudly. Your dog will come to investigate. However embarrassed you are, praise the dog for coming – any punishment will ruin your work so far, and you will be back to square one.

6) An adult dog that doesn't come on command has already learnt that the command word is meaningless. It is much easier to choose a different word than to try and correct a corrupted one. Choose 'here', 'to me' or any other simple word that you fancy!

Remember that however well your dog is trained, he may still get lost or stolen. I always recommend that any dog should be micro-chipped – a simple process whereby a microchip with personal information is injected under the dogs skin. Should he become lost, any dog pound / police handler will scan the dog for a chip, and be able to return him to his owner.

***For more information on training your dog, including plenty of freebies, click here.